creative.
-
Cultivating Prestige: How Haider Ackermann Is Turning Tom Ford Into An Institution
Prestige is an elusive formula of desire, discipline and perception. Tom Ford’s Haider Ackermann is turning that formula into a world of its own.
criticism.
-
2027: The Worst Possible Year For The Met To Honor John Galliano
Galliano’s work deserves its place in fashion history. But the Met has chosen a moment so politically combustible that the tribute already looks less like celebration than reputation management.
Get the latest commentary and criticism by signing up for email alerts.
more creative…
-
Marni S/S 2027: Meryll Rogge Keeps It Polite
Marni used to be the pinnacle of quirky, turning strangeness into the effortlessly beautiful. Meryll Rogge seems more concerned with turning the slightly unconventional into the perfectly respectable. How brave.
-
McQueen S/S 2027: Dumbed-down and de-fanged
Sean McGirr delivers another empty McQueen simulacrum: immaculate tailoring, exquisite craftsmanship and a parade of familiar McQueen-isms; but devoid of the intellectual bite that made them worth a damn in the first place.
-
The Best (and Worst) Collections of NYFW Spring/Summer 2027
NYFW may finally be showing signs of life again. Spring/Summer 2027 gave New York genuine design voices worth believing in, even as derivative work reminded us how far the city still has to go before it stops looking for Europe for validation.
-
Proenza Schouler Needs Rachel Scott To Be Bolder If It Hopes To Have An Identity Again
A new designer, an old problem, and a New York brand quickly becoming redundant.
-
Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W 26/27: High Fashion At Its Most Digestible
Tiny waists. Rubber bodices. Light-up torsos. Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli is an extravagant camp spectacle.
-
Why Can Tom Ford Charge Hermès Prices?
Craftsmanship has nothing to do with it.
more criticism…
-
Big Luxury’s Counterfeit War On New York City (And Its Darling Mayor) is Exposing Everyone
A corporate crackdown, a people’s darling socialist mayor, black market vendors, and millions of fake-bag shoppers – the details are scandalous and nobody is innocent.
-
Gucci Thinks Formula 1 Deal is Going to Distract you from its Price-Fixing Scandal
Gucci’s sportswashing tactics, and why consumers will let them get away with it. Oh, and the Gucci bag at the center of the scandal (allegedly).
-
Cruise 2027: Big Luxury’s Big Bet on Designer Mythology
How the myth of the Creative Director has become the industry’s most powerful tool.
-
By Design: Dior’s $4,900 Cigale Bag and LVMH’s Effort to Mythologize Jonathan Anderson
The corporate heirloom designed to cement Jonathan Anderson’s Dior and allocate taste to the chosen few
-
The Met Gala: Wealth Inequality, Dressed Up and Applauded – By You
How the public keeps choosing spectacle over its own interests.
